2015/03/13 Pipe Creek / Big Major Spot/Black Point / White Point

March 13, 2015 Pipe Creek / Big Major Spot/Black Point/White Point:

2/02/2015 Black Point to Pipe Creek, Exuma 14 nm

2/19/2015 Pipe Creek to Big Majors Spot, 5 nm

2/20/2015 Big Majors Spot to Sampson Cay, 4 nm

2/23/2015 Sampson Cay to Staniel (for groceries)/ Black Point 13 nm

2/26/2015 Black Point to Pipe Creek (Causeway) 13 nm

2/27/2015 Pipe Creek to Big Majors Spot 9 nm

3/08/2015 Big Majors Spot to White Point, Jack's Bay 12 nm

3/12/2015 White Point to Black Point

Total Miles to Date: 1236 nm

White Point Beach N,

“To look at the face and not see humanity is to lack humanity.” Edward Curtis pioneer in photography and author of “The North American Indian”

“As we frequently need to remind ourselves, history is generally written by the victors and, as such, can be exceedingly misleading, when it does not deliberately lie.” Farley Mowat

Pipe Ck Sands

Salty Turtle has been anchored off White Point about 5 miles S. of Black Point for the past few days enjoying a little solitude with a nice snorkel, some exploration, and a couple of beach walks thrown in for good measure. White Point is “beaches” thus white. Black Point is “iron rock” thus black. White Point is a tiny peninsula of land barely 300 feet across with beaches on both sides that extends about a half mile out into Banks off Great Guana Cay. 

 

We had shared this peaceful spot with only one other boat and a resident osprey...until yesterday when the “world” decided to descend on White Point (2 other boats showed up). Guess it's time to head for Black Point and see if the wifi gods will let us up load this blog....

Conch Walk

The Storm...

We wait...

Coming Storm

It was a flat calm evening in Pipe Creek – a magic kind of night. Wild Tamarind and Little Pipe cays were etched black against the magenta sky of a dieing sun. Pipe Creek was spooky quiet. Not a ripple. Not a bird. Not a human sound. The Turtle hung in the current as if suspended in a black pool and did not move...she too was waiting. We both know what is coming...by morning Pipe Creek will be a different place. The storm with its strong West winds will be upon us. 

 

Pipe Ck Sands

We had re-set the anchor. Added as much scope as possible. Lengthened our snubbers to 20 feet and not only had a loop of chain between the boat and the snubber but had added a pile of chain on the bottom for the winds and currents to have to drag around. The charplotter was on and so was Gigi's iPad both track the Turtle's ever move. Elongated “O” for a track indicates all is good but “Q” shapes do not give warm and fuzzy feelings and something must be done 'cause the anchor is (or has) been moving. We were as ready as could be. 

 

Joe - Da Mayor of Pipe Ck

It is not like we haven't been thru this drill before without incident. The last 5 weeks had been a series of cold fronts with strong West winds the like of which no one in living memory can remember. 

 

By morning the winds were exceeding 30ks in gusts out of the WNW (NNW winds will blow straight down the Ck). The snubbers were taught as a banjo strings fixing to bust with a shock load every minute or so from the 3' waves that were beginning to march down the creek, but we knew the worst was yet to come with the switch of tide at 11:00 AM. With the start of the incoming tide wind would be fighting current, waves would build to a short staccato chop slamming the hull every few seconds and wind would turn us sideways to the current. We waited keeping a sharp eye on the chartplotters and the reefs to our W and E both of which we clear by less than 100'. 

 

By 12:00 Noon the winds and clocked to the NNW and the winds built to a steady 30k with higher gust. The fight between the current and the wind was becoming a real problem. We were circling our anchor about ever 5 minutes. Our 88 pound Rocna anchor is an amazing piece of gear. It was holding and veering as we circled..but no anchor can keep up that kind of punishment and stay in the bottom. It was obvious...it was time to go. When it is bad enough to leave a relatively protected anchorage for the Banks where we would be looking at huge seas you know it is bad.

Gigi cranked the “Lolls” (what I call the engines because of the deep throated sound they make) and I went to the windless to plan my strategy. With the howl of the winds and the din created by the canvas being shook like a dog with a rat, it was obvious all communications were to be by hand signals. I prayed to the boat gods we got it right the first time...there would be no second chance. 

 

We waited until the current over came the wind and the Turtle started her circle around the anchor so there would less pressure on the rode to over come. With hand signals to Gigi we followed the rode. I don't know how she did it but she put Salty Turtle exactly where I signaled her every time. Little by little the 100' of rode crept in until it was straight up and down. One more gust and the anchor broke free and Gigi got the “thumbs up” signal that the boat was free and hers. 

 

Now it was time to do something with that damn dingy. It had been tied along side. Gigi eased us into the current in the wind shadow of Wild Tamarind Cay and I re-tied the dink off the stern for towing – no way could we lift it on deck in that wind. I can hear you asking why the dink was in the water in the first place with a storm coming on? Answer: safety. What if you needed to take a second anchor out or go the assistance of another boater – with the dink in davits that can not happen. 

 

The 4 foot seas were a piece of cake after the anchor drill and by 1:00 PM the Turtle had her anchor down in the NE corner of Big Major Spot with 150' of chain on the bottom and we could breath again. We were rolling our ass off but we were safe.

Time for an anchor's down R U M! Gigi and I had 2. By dark the winds had gone due N and settled the roll to something liveable.

All was right with our world again. Which just goes to show a little fear can move mountains.

Dave & Diane

Then There Was... the wedding and (before you ask) definitely not mine. 

 

Dave & Diane

Pam and Ron on “Legacy,” a Defever-44 like ours, had spent most of the year in Pipe Creek with us and “Just Ducky.” They had been excited ever since they entered the creek at the start of the year. Their best friends, Dave & Diane ,were coming to spend 10 days with them the first of March. Then came the phone call. Things were changing and changing fast. 

 

Dave walked into work on or about the 16^th of February and his asshole of a boss strolled in and erased his name off the “vacation board” and penciled in his own. Dave protested. He had had the vacation approved for months with tickets purchased and everything. His boss said, “so?” or words to that effect. Dave had been considering retirement and quit on the spot.

 

Dave, Diane, Pam, Ron, & Gigi

He went home, talked things over with Diane, his lady friend, and decided to put his home on the market and move in with her. It sold the day it hit the market...Dave was on a roll. Might as well go all the way, why not get married when they were in the Bahamas – they were going anyway and damn Dave's Boss. Good plan!

Bouquet in Progress

That's where the phone call came in and Gigi and I entered the picture. Ron knew I was a photographer and all weddings need a photographer...right? Of course I said yes. Now all that was left was to find a preacher and a church. They went looking for Burkie Rolle. Burkie works the gas dock at Staniel Cay Yacht Club, is part owner of Isles General Store with his wife Vivian, distributes propane for the Cay, is the best outboard mechanic on the island, and...is the one armed pastor of the Mt. Olivet Baptist Church (the one armed part is a story in its self). Burkie said yes and the date was set for Saturday, March 17^th at 3:00 PM.

Pam & Diane

The wedding day was a splash of color as the dinghies sped over the calm waters sprinkled with shadows of scudding clouds dancing before the sun making a kaleidoscope of ever shifting blues and greens. They were headed for a pre-party and lunch at Staniel Cay Yacht Club. After a great lunch, a number of Kalik beers, and few frozen daiquiris the wedding party headed out to pick the brides bouquet (note I said picked not pickup). Pam had come prepared and she and Diane stopped by the bougainvillaea that grew along the road on the way to the church and did a little trimming of the bougainvillaea. Pam even brought scissor for just such a need – nothing but the best for this bride. 

 

Vivian & Burkie

We arrived at the church early. The ladies were dressed in their finest beach attire and sandals. Dave actually wore long pants..and sandals. Burkie came “formal.” He wore his “arm” (never seen him with two arms before). Ron and Pam gave the bride away. Vow's were given. Fifteen dollar rings they picked up at the last minute in Nassau were exchanged and by 3:30 Burkie had pronounced them “Man and Wife.” It was a simple, quite beautiful ceremony. Vivian, Gigi and I were the witnesses. Burkie's service was perfect. And the Bride and Groom were happy and left hand in hand for the stroll back to the Yacht Club for...at least one more beer. 

 

For the price of a meal, two $15 dollar rings, $150 for the church, $20 for Brukie, and an odd beer or two Dave and Diane were husband and wife. The wedding its self was simple, stress free, and as perfect as a wedding can be. Weddings don't need to cost fortunes (although Dave said they blew the budget on flowers). All a perfect wedding really needs is love, good friends...and maybe a beer or two.

Hand in Hand

Post Party

Plans:

We will probably spend Easter at Black Point and then head for Rock Sound in Eleuthera, do a little exploring, and then head on up island to Spanish Wells and up to the Abacos. Until next time.

Faiwinds and Rum Drinks,

Vic

PS – If you want to find a “private beach” then the Exuma Sound side of Jack's Bay Cove off Great Guana Cay is your place.

Jacks Bay Cove Beach

2015/02/20 Pipe Creek / Black Point Settlement / Little Bay

 

February 02, 2015 Pipe Creek

01/05/2015 Black Point to Pipe Creek, Exuma 13 nm

01/10/2015 Pipe Creek to Big Majors Spot, Exuma 7 nm

01/13/2015 Big Major Spot to Pipe Creek, Exuma 7 nm

01/30/2015 Pipe Ck to Black Point Settlement, Exuma 18 nm

Total Miles to Date: 1158 nm

“It's all about taking advantage of opportunities that come your way, because, if you wait until tomorrow, the chance will be gone forever today.” A quote from Scotty a friend of James Rosemond the author of “Hiding on the Bottom – Mid Life Misadventures Down East”....and they are about as true a words as ever spoke.

“The best moments in life are often those stolen.” Vic Copelan

“Can't hardly tell boats from cars no more, with all the shine and chrome. And the noise of them big outboards---Lord! Scaring the last fish out of the bays! Hit the throttle when they hit the water, take off howling, throw up big waves that bash our old wood boats against bulkheads. No experience of fish or tides or weather, no knowledge of backcountry, no idea where in the heck they might be headed for, let alone why, just roaring around bouncing off each other's wake like damn fool chickens with their heads cut off!” Quote from Peter Matthiessen's “Lost Man's River.”

Rhythm of Life

It has taken us about a month to decompress and accept the rhythm of life dictated by the ebb and flow of the tides in Pipe Creek. Here all life follows the gentle shift of the tides and the ever changeable weather. Here there are few outside influences that govern our lives other than those of the natural world and a few like minded friends. Everything we do is metered by the tides and weather. 

We snorkel at change of tide. Hunt the cuts (inlets) for lobster at slack of tide. Walk the beaches and tidal flats when the wind gods allow. Make the 5 mile dingy ride to Staniel Cay for groceries and a rum punch or two at the Yacht Club when those same same wind gods don't stack the waves against us and allow passage safe enough it will not beat Old Vic to death. In short Pipe Creek is my version of heaven...as long as you follow the rhythm. But there is one “proverbial fly” in our Pipe Creek “ointment.” The best places to anchor are either in “the causeway or the runway.”

Take a look at the chart of Pipe Creek. See the blue tape triangle, that is where we are anchored. If you look close you will see there is a reef between us and the deep water channel off Thomas Cay. Like wise there are a series of small cay called the “Mice” between us and the deep water off Rat Cay. The “casuseway” between Thomas Cay and the small reef is a natural channel for boats moving North and South from Compass Cay Marina, the Bahamas Land & Sea Park, and the Staniel Cay. Look to the South of the Turtle's anchorage and you will see Overyounder Cay and to the North and West, Little Pipe Cay. Both are very private resorts. Both have their own float planes that service the Cays shuttling guests and supplies to and from their islands. The natural “runway” is right over the top of our anchorage under normal wind directions (takeoffs and landings are done into the wind). 

So if you anchor here in good sand (good holding for the anchor) you have choices to make. The “highway” where boats pass you at speed, some throwing huge wakes or the “runway” where float planes can be so close you can tell if the pilot needs a shave. 

A few days back during a not so fun West wind we had a couple of planes out of Little Pipe land so close I literally could have hit the plane with a rum bottle and not had to strain my pitiful throwing arm. The pilot usually waves as he lands and I return the gesture...we have become “passing” friends.

Anchored in the “highway” like our friends Joe and Carol on “Just Ducky” there is a bit of good news. The current is so swift and the boats have to pass so close the wakes don't last long and don't pose much of a problem... but some times they can rock ya pretty good. The bad news is the sportfish boats off most of the mega yachts and local Bahamian boats have little respect for “anchorages.” It is what it is....

In exchange for an occasional salty prop wash from a passing plane or a good rockin' from a passing boat we get to enjoy a well protected anchorage complete with some of the best snorkeling in the Bahamas, gorgeous beaches, “pink” sand flats to walk ( I think made of broken conch shell), and solitude – the same area the paying guests on Overyounder and Little Pipe get to enjoy. Oh … and by the way, you too can stay at Overyounder Cay. It only cost $500,000 a week to rent. As far as the Turtle is concerned, Gigi & I will just keep enjoying our anchorage in the “runway”..thank you very much.

Cabin Fever:

It has been an unusual week here in Pipe Creek. It started Saturday night with the arrival of a cold front and 20 knot plus West winds. Since then the winds have veered back and forth between West and North West and stayed between 15 and 30 knots...and those winds are not to let up until Friday morning. Five days of West winds are un-heard of in the Bahamas in winter. In my 8 years of coming down this is a first.

Lion Fish

When the winds go W at better than 10 knots it sends every boat skittering for shelter looking for a rock to hide behind and at 20 knots it is time to honker down and wait them out. After boat chores are done you are left with books and movies, books and movies..unless you are a bit younger than us and then there is another option....and I do wish I were younger, at this moment anyway. Under these conditions it doesn't take long for “cabin fever” grab you by the short hairs and not let go. 

Sand Flats

It reminds me of a time many years ago when I was young. I had had my Ranger-29 about a year and it looked like perfect weather to go to Cape Lookout. Connie and I gave Becky (Connie's sister) and George Shennan a call and invited them to go to the Cape with us. Noel (my son) was about 10. Becky and George had a son a, James, year younger than Noel and a daughter, Rebekah, about 4 years old. No problem after all my 29' sailing “yacht” had 6 berths..right? Connie and I in the V-berth, Noel and James in the quarter berth, George & Becky in the main cabin and we make a pallet on the cabin sole for Rebekah...done! 

Thomas Cay Cut (inlet)

It takes 2 days to get from Washington, NC to the Cape by water so we really only had to deal with that arrangement for 2 days (one going and one on the way back). The plan was the kids would camp on the beach at Cape Lookout and George and I would take turns spending the night with them. Good plan..but we made the mistake of trusting the weather gods.

Gigi & Ida

We had a great sail down, spent a wonderful night at anchor in Cedar Creek, and arrived at Cape Lookout just a little past mid-day. During those days all I had for a dingy was an 8' rowing pram built by your's truly that we had christened “Noel's Ark.” It took 3 trips to take all the crew, camping gear, and ships stores (beer) ashore but by 3:00 in the afternoon all the chores were done. James and Noel took off to explore the Lookout Bight, Becky and Connie were wading the shallows and keeping and eye on Rebekah as she played in the tidal pools, and George & I were doing what we do best...nothing 'cept suckin' down a cold one. Life was good...too good.

About dusk the wind blew up out of the N. North wind? No N winds were predicted. By the time I rowed the girls out to the boat it was blowing 20 or better..and still I had to go back and get George and the boys. It literally took me over 30 minutes to row the 150' out to “Oconee.” It was quite apparent that there would be no going back ashore for the night..we all would be spending the night on the boat...again.

I woke the next morning and the wind had actually built and Rebekah was not in the cabin. I panicked! She was not in the quarter berth with the boys! Oh my God, had Rebekah gotten out on deck and fallen over board!? I ran to the cockpit and there she was watching the sun come up. The minute she saw me she said, “We got wind we can go sailing!” I grabbed her and gave her a great big hug of relief with thoughts of “what if” running rampant in my mind.

We played games. Read stories. Drank beer. Listen to music and told “lies.” Three days later the winds had dropped out and we woke to the cry of gulls and the gentle lap of water on the hull. It was a race between George and I to see who would get the privilege of take the kids ashore.

And you know that trip still holds a special place in my heart. I don't think there was a negative thought or fuss the whole trip. Attitude is everything and brother we had it right for that voyage. “Cabin fever” is what you make of it.

Black Point Anchorage - White Building Ida's Rockside Laundry

Time to wrap this up and head for Scorpio's Bar for the Super Bowl Festivities. We have arranged a table with our friends Bobbie and Francie on “Barefootin.'” Should be fun...Bobbie was a little surprised at the spelling of his boat's name...but I sort of like it.

Scorpio's Bar, Bobbie in the red cap.

Fairwinds and Rum Drinks,

Vic C.

Rum Punch with a "Punch"

PS – Scorpio's rum punches are the best.

2015/01/03 Lake Worth to Blackpoint Settlement, Exuma

2015/01/01 - Lake Worth to Black Point Settlement, Great Guana Cay, Exuma

12/04/2014 North Lake Worth to South Lake Worth, FL 7 nm

12/05/2014 South Lake Worth to Ft. Lauderdale, Rio Barcelona Canal, FL 41 nm

12/10/2014 Rio Barcelona Canal to Los Olas Anchorage, FL 2 nm

12/11/2014 Los Olas Anchorage to Palm/Hibiscus Islands, Miami, FL 24 nm

12/15/2015 Palm/Hibiscus Island to Nassau Harbor Club, Bahamas 169nm

12/19/2014 Nassau Harbor Club to Hawksbill Cay, Exuma 48 nm

12/20/2014 Hawksbill Cay to Pipe Ck, Exuma 25 nm

12/30/2014 Pipe Ck to Black Point Settlement, Great Guana Cay, Exuma 12 nm

Total Miles to Date: 1024 nm

“The cabin of a small yacht is truly a wonderful thing; not only will it shelter you form the tempest, but from the other troubles of life; as well.” L.Francis Herreshoff

“The sea belongs to us all, and every aspect of it, from halcyon calm, to howling hurricane, is fraught with beauty.” Samuel Eliot Morison

Trumpy

The Crossing:

The Turtle hauled her anchor in N Lake Worth, took on her last fuel State side, and motored 7 miles down the ICW past the Ribovitch Boat Yard where huge mega yachts are serviced and anchored about 2 miles South of Lake Worth inlet to stage for the trip to Ft. Lauderdale. It turned out to be a good choice, it was quiet, not crowded, the ICW wakes did not seem to reach us, and we got to share the anchorage with a beautiful classic old wooden Trumpy motor yacht in the 100 foot range.

S.Lake Worth Anchorage

The plan was to push on the next day down the ICW to Ft. Lauderdale either inside on the ICW or outside in the Atlantic...we were praying for weather to take us out side. The next 41 miles on the ICW are hell on earth to sailboats and power boats alike. Over those 41 miles there are 28 bridges and sailboats have to open every single one (we get a break and only have to open 10). But that is not all the evil in store in those mile, most of the trip is thru what is known as the “canyon.” The canyon is really a concrete walled ditch. Every boat wake sets up a rebound off the walls of the canyon and makes for confused, un-endingly uncomfortable seas. Stir in a few South Florida Assholes with a peppering of small unpredictable boat traffic and you have my idea of boater's hell. Rule: Never ever do this section of the ICW on a weekend or holiday!!!!!!!

New River

Well the weather did not cooperate and we did go down inside..stupid us (and it was a Monday). Never EVER again!! By the time G and I got the anchor down in the Rio Barcelona Canal our nerves were tied in one large knot that it took 3 rum & tonics to even start to loosen. As bad as it was for us, the poor sailboaters behind us had it much worse...there were 2 busted bridges that were operating on an “adjusted” schedule – one opening every 6 hours...god help'em. Never EVER again!!

Well Rio Barcelona is not really an anchorage but Middle River was full..and any port in a storm as sailors like to say. We spent the next few days anchored at the ass end of the Rio with the tour boats using us as a turn point since we blocked their further progress...we put out extra anchor lights and slept like babies.

"Rabbit Warren"

Lauderdale is a veritable “rabbit warren” of canals with little marinas, gorgeous homes, and boats, boats and more boats. It took us a little over an hour by dink to by-gosh-in-by-golly our way out to the New River, that severs the heart of Ft. Lauderdale, and make our way to the Downtowner, a local bar that had a good Sunday brunch and even better “bloodies.” What's not to like about a place that asks you if you want your Bloody Mary “to go?” We left “bread crumbs” in the water and it only took 20 minutes on the return trip.

Los Olas Anchorage

After waring out our welcome in Rio we moved on down the ICW to Miami Beach, enjoyed some good Cuban food, made our last Publix stop, and settled in to wait for a window...and for once it was not a long wait – only 5 days.

There is a rule in Gulf Stream crossings – “Never cross with any wind out of the North East to North West.” The winds were supposed to be a less than 10 out of the North and seas between 1 & 2 feet...but close together (the closer the seas the more a pain in the butt). Non-the-less, it sounded good and we were about to break that rule.

It takes Salty Turtle about 24 hours to cross to Nassau out of Miami and we plan accordingly. We pulled anchor around 8:00 AM and cleared the inlet a little before 9:00. The crossing was a piece of cake (even with that N wind). We saw only 5 ships in crossing, actually had to alter course for 2 and hailed 3. It could have been better but we have seen much worse. By 3:00 PM we were in the Bahamas, our Q flag hoisted (yellow quarantine flag), and the beautiful aqua waters of the Bahamas foaming off Turtle's bow. Turtle was home tasting Bahamian waters again.

Green Flash..Well Greenish

The sunset was spectacular with colors from brilliant reds to soft golds and ending in our first “green flash” at sea with the actual setting of the sun. Tongue of the Ocean was its usual “cluster.” Where the Tongue joins NW Providence Channel there used to be a light (now a submerged stump of what's left of a light). Thru here pass most of the traffic East and West bound. No matter what the time of day or night it is a busy spot and you best keep a good watch. We spoke one small Bahamian freighter at NW Providence Channel “Stump” and passed a safe port to port.

It had been a dark night with stars painting the sky and the great swath of the Milky Way slashing its way across the heavens. A dark night at sea is one of the true wonders of the world I wish you all could experience it. I was headed somewhere with this story before the sky side tracked me..Oh ya, the “devil moon.”

Nassau Sunrise

It was about 2 in the morning. Gigi was off watch and asleep. I had been fiddling with the chartplotter when I looked up and saw what appeared to be two iridescent orange horns rising from the sea...an unholy sight at best. Then it gained a body and morphed into what appeared to be the hull of an orange ship, sort of a crescent shaped bowl with bow and stern accentuated with those “horns” all aflame slowly rising out of the sea and it was BIG...and I mean big. I was stumped. What the hell is this thing? Was it a ship afire? A cruise ship with every light it had on and its hedonistic passengers preparing to party in the dawn? I grabbed the binoculars and pinned them on the mystery ship. Even thru the binoculars it was a puzzle. Gradually it dawned on me it was a crescent moon rising out of the sea so distorted by atmosphere it was almost unrecognizable in it's shimmering orange coat – a “devil moon” and as odd a sight as I've seen at sea. ...And no rum was involved.

Clearing in Customs and Immigration

By 9:00 AM we were tied to the dock at Nassau Harbor Club and with the help of our friends Dudley and Clark and another safe passage under our belt. It was time to check in with Immigration & Customs and then grab a well earned nap.

Exumas!

Three days later we were anchored off Hawksbill Cay in the Exuma Land and Sea Park for the night. We had planned to stay at Harbor Club until Monday but we had changed the oil in all engines, washed the boat, rummed up, had lamb chops at East Villa, made 4 mandatory trips to BTC (phone company) to get our phone and broad band stuff done, and had a nice catchup with our friends Clay and Rita Kay. We were ready, the boat was ready and the weather was too good to miss. By noon the next day we were anchors down in Pipe Creek and it was time to decompress after a long journey.

Green Turtle in Pipe Ck

Christmas dinner was a potluck organized and hosted by our friends Joe and Carol aboard “ Just Ducky” and we were joined by new friends Garheart (German) and Innes (Dutch) off “Fussel” (Dutch for “dust bunny”). Innes said when they bought the boat it was full of “dust bunnies” so Garheart said, “We name her Fussel.” I asked them how they met? Garheart and Innes in unison said, “Spain... of course.” Gotta be a story there.

Over Younder Cay

We have spent our days snorkeling, fishing, hunting lobster and conch (finding little) and getting back into the gentle swing of the life in the Bahamas. We are currently anchored off Black Point Settlement spending a few pleasant days among friends here before we head back to Pipe Creek for another go at those lobster, fish and conch.

A Christmas "Just Ducky"

May the New Year Be Kind To You All,

Fairwinds and Rum Drinks,

Vic C.