Bedlam...Bahamian Style: 4/17/3013

April 7, 2013 to April 18, 2013: Black Point to Georgetown, Exuma

 

4/08/2013 Pipe Creek to Staniel Cay / Black Point Settlement 16 nm

4/09/2013 Black Point to Little Farmers (Western Bay) 11 nm

4/11/2013 Western Bay to Black Point 11 nm

4/15/2013 Black Point to Georgetown 54 nm

Total Miles to Date: 1493 nm

Little Farmer's All Age School

 

“The trickiest part of any voyage or cruise may turn out to be the short leg between any harbor entrance and dock, both on the way in and the way out.” Carleton Mitchell

“In certain places, at certain hours, gazing at the sea is dangerous. It is what looking at a woman sometimes is.” Victor Hugo

 

Kevin Rolle:

The first year Gigi and cruised the Exumas was 5 years ago..can't be that long ago, but it was. We were knee deep in 4 weeks worth of laundry. The guide books said the only place really to do laundry in the upper Exumas was Ida's Rockside Laundry in Black Point Settlement.

We anchored in the bay off Black Point and headed for the dingy dock with a boat full to running over with dirty clothes. Lugging three bags of laundry and sundries we headed down the dock and up to the street. Gigi and I each had a bag in our outboard hands plus the huge LL Bean bag strung between with Gigi on one handle and me on the other.

We had just reached the street when the Black Point Police car (ain't but one) pulled up beside us and stopped. Gigi looked at me and I looked at her with that question of a look that says, “What have we done..and we just got here too?” look on our collective faces. The Officer rolled down the window, peered out with his big Bahamian smile and said, “You folks look like you need a ride to Ida's. Hop in.” And that is how we met Kevin Rolle and he has been a friend ever since. We fell in love with the Black Point community at that instant and have been hooked on its friendly helpful people ever since.

Friday, two weeks ago, we were at anchor in Pipe Creek when Kevin came by in the police boat out for a day of fun with his sons. We waved. Kevin flashed us one of his big Bahamian smiles, waved back, and headed off toward Compass Cay. We didn't know it at the time, but that was the last we would see of our friend Kevin on this earth. Kevin was to die saturday night of a pulmonary aneurism. He was flown to Nassau but did not survive. Kevin was just 46 years old. He left behind a wife and family and three communities in shock (Black Point Settlement, his brother's in arm in the Bahamian Police Force, and us Cruisers). He will be buried with full military honors in Nassau this Friday as is only fitting.

Kevin was more that just a policeman and preacher. He was the heart of his community. He was the best ambassador Black Point could have chosen. And he was our friend...and in truth, a friend to countless other as well.

Bedlam..Bahamian Style:

Black Point Settlement is home of some of the best “C-Class” Bahamian Sloops ever built like “Smashie” and “Seahorse” built by Van Fergersion and his son Bo. In the off season or when they are built or repaired they sit high on a sloping, iron rock, bank in back of the All Age School known as “da yard.” Every since I have been coming to Black Point Settlement I've wondered just how in the hell do they get a fixed keel, one ton boat from the iron rock to water with no mechanical help or conveyance without destroying it. I have always admired and been amazed by the Bahamian approach to projects like this. This year I found out how it was done and actually got to help launch “Seahorse” (something I can now check off my “bucket list).

First, timing. “Tings” don't happen at an appointed time here. They just happen when “day” happen. People start showing up as if the time was set by some internal Bahamian clock – Seahorse's launch was no exception. I knew that much at least so I watched from the Turtle until people started to show and then jumped in the dink and headed for shore. No one was in charge or gave orders. Men just assemble on both sides of Seahorse grabbed “holt” and then bedlam broke out.

Everyone shouting at the top of their lungs, everyone in charge, and everyone with conflicting orders. “Pulleft! Pullrite! Slidtinga! Pickdastarn! Fardroll! Ramovedabord! Straitendatinga! Diswaymon! Disway! Slakline! Slakline!” It was a den of shouting, pulling, tugging, and all in opposing directions, plywood being slid under the keel, water pipe rollers between the keel and plywood, and slowly the boat pushed, shoved, pulled and rolled its self to the water with toes that should have been smashed and arms that should have been crushed left undone. All to a den of shouting that the multi-languages of Bedlam could not have held a candle too (imagine all those words plus many more shouted at the same time in a staggering rhythm and you will have it about right). Then she was a float, all was quiet, and the Bahamians left as if someone had punched their time clock, leaving Bo, Van, and I standing on the iron rock watching “Seahorse” rock to the gentle swell of her new home patiently awaiting her mast and lead.

For the record, I am still in awe (as in shock and awe and as in true respect for ) how Bahamians approach projects like moving Seahorse. All I can say is it is still a mystery to me just how the job was done and why no one was hurt, but it did happen and no one was… and I got to be part of whatever did.

One “ting certain Mon”...it was pure Bahamian...Pure Bahamian.

(I apologize for the photos. I screwed up and left the camera's autofocus set on manual..thus the blurry images)

Hand Line Fishin':

After a week of waiting for a window to head down to Georgetown and the 60^th Family Island Regatta on Monday the15th one finally opened. It wasn't the best window in the world but it was the best we were going to get for at least another week with winds in the 10-15 knot range on the nose and 1 to 3 foot seas. So we were off out Dothom Cut at first light.We had heard that mahi were everywhere and we should get a boat load on the way down and we were anxious to try our luck.

We had hand lines in the water within the hour. Our friends had told us to fish with rigged ballyhoo with a pink skirt on it's nose, about 120' behind the boat and run about 7k. We zigzagged our way south running on and off soundings with no luck. It was Gigi's watch (of course, she is the fisher lady) and she had just fixed her lunch (again of course) and the Turtle was in about 100' of water when the fish hit .

We have no boat rod or reel (we will next year) - we use hand lines. Our technique is to let the fish drag behind the boat a bit before we pull him in to take the fight out of him and pray a shark doesn't get him before we do. We keep a bucket handy to dump the extra line in as it comes aboard. Gigi hauled and I dumped the line in the bucket, we swung him aboard and dumped him in the scuppers. The Turtle Crew had caught a 10 to15 pound Cero Mackerel (about a 4 to 5 meal fish). Cero is similar in flavor and texture to a King Mackerel. Within 30 minutes he was cleaned and in the frig ready for supper.

That evening at anchor in Georgetown off Kid Cove, we marinated a couple of pieces in zesty italian dressing, grilled him, and had him for supper with a little wild rice. Mmmm Gooood!

Our friend, Jim off “No Regrets,” says we should be off soundings for mahi. On the trip North we will try that...but Cero ain't bad by a long stretch and we still have 3 meals left in the freezer.

 

That Time of Year..

It is that time of year again... the time when all us cruisers feel a “stirring.” Like the great flocks of migrating water fowl just before the spring thaw something awakens in our very marrow and swings our compass Northward. A bit of restlessness descends on the anchorages and clouds our collective thoughts. Our senses are heightened to every color and sound. Every swim in that gin clear water is absorbed and savored to the fullest. Every sunset takes on a special heightened must see priority and the pastels of the dieing sun somehow are exaggerated. We visit our friends in the settlements with emotional hugs and smiles of “until next year” at every meeting. “Goodbys” take on a bit more permanence and heart felt poignance as friends depart - friends that we will not see again until the fall... and some never ever again in this life. All cruisers know that goodbys are part of the lifestyle but they still go straight to the heart (we have known people that quit cruising because they could no longer take the goodbys). 

cow fish

 

The words “fair winds,” “safe travels,” and “until next year” fill the air waves on the VHF as boat after boat hauls its anchor and heads North. North to the States. North to Canada. North to Europe. North to England. North to Home. North to Family and Friends. North to the “unreal world” we all left behind.

And Salty Turtle will follow in their wake North as soon as Family Island Regatta is over...but not yet..not, just yet.

Fairwinds & Rum Drinks,

Vic C.

Great Exuma Gas Wars: 2013/04/07

March 3^rd to April 7, 2013: Pipe Creek to Little Farmers (Upper Exuma)

3/08/2013 Pipe Ck to Black Point/Bitter Guana/Big Major Spot 27nm

3/10/2013 Big Major Spot to Black Point 6 nm

3/13/2013 Black Point to Sampson Cay 10 nm

3/17/2013 Sampson Cay to Little Farmers Cay (Oven Rock) 21 nm

3/18/2013 Oven Rock to Black Point 9 nm

3/19/2013 Black Point to Alan's Cay 53 nm

3/20/2013 Alan's Cay to Nassau Harbor Club 33 nm

3/22/2013 Nassau Harbor Club to Pipe Creek 73 nm

3/31/2013 Pipe Ck to Big Major Spot 6 nm

4/03/2013 Big Major Spot to Pipe Ck 7 nm

Total Miles to Date: 1406 nm

“The Journey is the Reward.” Taoist Proverb

“If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion, and avoid the people, you might as well stay home.” James Mitchener

Mike and Maril Doster's Visit:

 

The weather was awful and expected to deteriorate even further. We were tucked into Pipe Creek all safe and secure but Mike and Maril were arriving on the Watermaker Air's 3:00 PM flight and... god our dingy is so small when it comes to facing a 5 mile ride one way in 3' chop on the Banks or (god forbid) the sound. Jim Treadwell, our friend off “No Regrets,” volunteered to go down in his 17' inflatable. Man that would have been a miserable trip in our dink. He saved 3 wet butts.

Once the front passed the weather cleared and Mike and Maril could not have had better weather week. The week went by in a blur as they usually do when friends are together. We went snorkeling down at what we call “Mushroom Reef” near Compass Cay Cut and, to our surprise and delight, Maril took to snorkeling like a duck to water. G and I took them over to Tucker's Compass Cay Marina where you can swim with his pet sharks (for some reason both Mike and Maril demurred). Tucker also servers up one of the best (and most expensive) hamburgers in the Bahamas. After lunch we walked his beautiful beaches.

 

Speaking of beaches, I think one of the most beautiful in the world is on Twin Cays about a mile off Sampson Cay on the Banks between Sampson and Pipe Creek. It is known to us as “Magic and Missy Beach.” Buck and Vicki Dawkins and Jim and Barb Thompson named it after their pups Magic and Missy that loved to run the beach and swim the shallow lagoon. The beach is a crescent shaped and with pink / white sand with a texture so pure and fine it feels like standing a feather bed for the feet. The beach is ringed by clear aquamarine waters with deep water accents of navy blue. This beach truly is “Magic.” 

 

We finished the week with a whirl wind tour of Black Point Settlement, Bitter Guana Cay (home of an iguana research project) and finished with the swimming pigs on Big Major Spot and lunch (not BBQ) at Staniel Cay Yacht Club. Let me tell ya seeing Maril face to face with iguana was worth the price of admission. Next time we hope to get them down to Little Farmers for some of Earnestine's famous chicken souse.

Bitter Guana Chalk Cliffs

Breadboy The Gas Can Savior:

Not long after Mike and Maril Watermakered their way home the outboard on the dink became hard to start. I suspected water in the fuel...as it turned out water was the symptom not the cause. I pulled the pickup line to the gas tank and the whole fitting came off in my hand. This was not a problem it was a disaster. Our dingy is our life line. It is everything. No dink. Can't get ashore. Can't get groceries. Can't go snorkeling. Can't go fishing. Can't visit friends. We were in a “fix” as they say in the South.

We were anchored off Black Point doing laundry at the time of the disaster. I gave Breadboy, a friend of ours, a call on the VHF and asked if he knew where we could find a new or used gas tank. Without blinking Breadboy said, “I think I got one Vic. It got some fuel in it but you can pore dat out.” An hour later he returned to Salty Turtle with an old tank half filled with ancient fuel...and would take nothing for the tank. Breadboy was quickly elevated in our eyes from “friend” to “savior.” After dumping the fuel, rinsing the tank (twice with very expensive gas), and running the piss out of the outboard for a while we were back in business...almost but that's another story.

breadboy

You don't make friends down here or anywhere for that matter for what they can do for you. You make them because you like them and respect them. But when the chips are down friends do what friends do everywhere...save your butt when they can. Bahamian friends are no exception.

The best thing that came of this whole experience is the knowledge that we really do have a friend have a friend here and his name is Breadboy.

The Great Exuma Gasoline Wars:

It all started about a month ago when the fuel barge that brings fuel to Staniel Cay in the Exumas broke down and had to be hauled for repairs in Nassau. It could not have come at a worse time. Starting about the first of March colleges in the US have spring break. That means that all the Mega Yachts loaded down with kids complete with gas guzzelin' sportfish boats in tow head for the Exumas, anchor off Staniel and Sampson Cays, belch Seados and other gas powered toys, and descend on the fuel docks at Staniel and Sampson to suck up fuel and gas.

Staniel Cay Yacht Club ran dry almost instantly. That meant the only source of fuel and gas between Highborne Cay and Gerogetown ( a span of close to 80 miles) was Sampson Cay Club. Mike, the manager of Sampson, immediately announced no more gas or fuel except for folks tied to his dock or locals in need until further notice. He had no choice, otherwise the 5 Mega Yachts anchored off Sampson would suck him dry in a matter of days. Sampson gets its fuel from a different source than Staniel but he is lucky if “da barge reach” every couple of weeks..and even then it is nothing better than a “Bahamian guess” when it actually will. By-the-way, if a Bahamian says tomorrow he means he ain't got a clue – could be tomorrow, could be next month, “when it show up it reach.”

About 3 weeks ago it started to get real serious and took a nasty turn. Salty Turtle was under power headed back from Black Point to Sampson to tuck up next to Sampson for the next cold front when the VFH crackled to life. A Bahamian (who we will call Sam) that rents boats was calling Sampson to see if he could get some gas for his boats. Fly, the dockmaster on duty, told him they were still not selling gas. Sam snapped back, “You gotta' do something Mon!”and he said it with a tone I had not heard before - this was serious. Fly responded with, “Nuttin' I can do Mon.” You could tell Fly was a bit irritated but under control. A heated discussion erupted on channel 16 VHF in front of God and everyone who was listening..and in the Bahamas that is everybody. Gigi and I looked at one another wide eyed in astonishment. In our 6 years here we have never seen “tings gets dis” serious.

A few days later I was over at Sampson and the fuel crisis was reaching a real critical stage. Mike was almost out of fuel for his generators (if he ran out that meant no electricity and the Mega Yachts at his dock that suck up electricity at almost as an unbelievable rate as they do diesel fuel under way). Mike was down to serious rationing for gas as well. He was selling only absolutely necessary amount to locals that depend on gas for their livelihood. The situation was getting desperate and tempers were getting short.

After listening to Mike's tales of woe Gigi and I eased back out to the Turtle to listen to the Wolf Pack woop Virginia Tech in the ACC Tournament. About an hour after we left Sampson full scale warfare broke out. Boatboy (name changed to protect the righteous) who also rents boats was there to get gas when Sam storms up to the dock and demands Fly sell him gas. Sam has a habit of being a bit slow to pay according to stories we have heard. Mike immediately injects himself into the situation. Asked Sam to come into the office where a heated discussion boils over into a shouting match. Mike finally calms Sam down and agrees to sell him gas.

Sam heads back outside and announces to the world that Mike said to, “sell him gas.” It would have been fine if he had left it at that but no. Sam decided it was time to insult Boatboy and add to his coup for the day. Well, those of us who know Boatboy, know he ain't no little guy and is not a person you would want to piss off. Boatboy told Sam he needed to get his gas and shut up. Well Sam could not leave Boatboy alone and got right back in his face. Boatboy told Sam “You better not do dat again!” He did and Boatboy exploded and Sam hit the dirt. It took 5 grown men to pull him off Sam or so I'm told. Mike told me later that Boatboy called that night and apologized even though he didn't start the fracas.

The war finally ended in another 2 Bahamian weeks ('bout a month Mon) when both Staniel and Sampson started getting gas and fuel again on some sort of a regular schedule. I don't know whether this was the end of the war or just a lull in the battle but for now peace has returned to the Exumas and there exist a somewhat shaky truce to say the least. 

 

Snorkeling:

purple sea fan

This has been our best year snorkeling by a long shot for a couple of reasons. First, Jim Treadwell took us under his wing and shared his reefs as far North as Jeep Reef off Little Wax Cay and as far South as BAS Reef (Big Ass Shark) off Little Major Spot. Second, with a little confidence under our belt, we found new sites on our own such as Osprey Reef near Compass Cay Cut and No Fishing Reef off Big Sampson Cay. We have seen new growth of Stag and Elk Horn Coral (very encouraging), large stands of Purple Sea Fan Coral undulating with the current, some of the largest Angle Fish I've ever seen (some as big as large platters) and two huge Barracuda (longer than me and bigger around than my leg) and even a live Tulip Mollusk close to 18” long boogieing along on in single foot fashion off Rat Cay at over 6 feet a minute...yes, I timed the bugger.

Boogie

Tulip Molusk

Every place we find seems better than the last. Neither Gigi nor I tire of just getting in the water and going walkabout and seeing what we can see. 

 

Want to know where these reefs are? We'll show ya. Let's go swimming. Yea Mon!

To Come:

We have spent the last 2 months basking in the warmth of waters and friends in the upper Exumas. This has become our home as much as Matthews Point Marina in North Carolina is our home, but it is time for a change. Monday we head down to Little Farmers to take the photos for the All Age School there then back to Black Point for laundry, haircut, and pizza and then we will catch the next weather window to Georgetown. There Gigi's cousin Tom will join us for Family Island Regatta (60^th anniversary this year) and help us bring Salty Turtle back to the States in early May..or late May..or whenever she reach.

Black Point Sands

Fairwinds and Rum Drinks,

Vic

PS – We also made a fast trip to Nassau to get a crown put back on one of my teeth...but that's another story. Thank you Clay and Rita-Kay!!!!!!!

2013/03/02 Nassau to Upper Exumas

Sunset Big Major Spot

January 31 to March 3, 2013: Nassau Harbor Club to the Upper Exumas

1/31/2013 Nassau Harbor Club to Big Majors Spot 74nm

2/03/2013 Big Majors to Little Bay, Great Guana Cay 11nm

2/05/2013 Little Bay to Blackpoint Settlement 2.1nm

2/06/2013 Blackpoint to Big Major Spot 12nm

2/08/2013 Big Majors to Pipe Creek 5.6nm (inside route)

2/20/2013 Pipe Creek to Blackpoint 12 nm

2/21/2013 Black Point to Little Farmer's Cay 11 nm

2/23/2013 Little Farmer's to Big Majors Spot 19 nm

2/24/2013 Big Majors Spot to Pipe Creek 2.1 nm (inside route)

Total Miles Traveled to Date: 1154 nm

“Sacred cows make the best hamburger” Bob Kingsbury, M/V “Pretty Penny”

“It is perfectly legal to serve your husband bacon.” M/V “Big Run”

Da Plane, Pipe Creek, and Other Stories:

Finally after and expensive (but fun) stay in Nassau we made our escape and crossed the Yellow Banks to Big Majors Spot in the upper Exumas. It was a long 71 nautical mile run but there was weather coming and we wanted to be snuggled up to a big solid island before it arrived.** Here we were reunited with our friends Bob and Penny on M/V “Pretty Penny,” Ray and Susan on “No Agenda” and made a couple of new friends Jim and Christine Treadwell off “No Regrets.” We didn't know it at the time but Jim was to change our lives.

At Anchor Big Major Spot

A West wind was coming and Jim and Christine were headed for Pipe Creek - one of the few all weather anchorages in the upper Exumas. Gigi and I have always loved Pipe Ck. but have been too “chicken shit” to feel our way in. Jim volunteered to lead us in on “No Regrets.” Jim has been cruising this area for the past 20 years and, like us, loves the upper Exumas especially Pipe Creek. 

Full Moon Shadow in 12' of Water

 

We left the following morning at mid-tide. The Turtle following “No Regrets” to a point about a mile off Wild Tamarind Cay (Rat Cay) where a rectangular rock on Thomas Cay lines up with a small white stretch of beach on Wild Tamarind. “No Regrets” took a heading directly in line with the visual marks until we were about 200 yards off the beach and then hung a right paralleling the island keeping to the “blue” water (blue is deep). At the end of Wild Tamarind we lined up on “the House” on Over Yonder Cay (see photo) and and continued in the blue water past the shoals off the end of Wild Tamarind. Jim lead us to a weed line (dark green) off the South end of Thomas Cay. The trick is to say on top of that weed line for about 100 yards and at mid-tide you will see no less than 7 feet of water. Once in we anchored in 12 feet of water over the prettiest sand you ever saw...and Old Vic could breath again. “The House” on Over Yonder, by the way, is reported to be own by the founder of Intel and there is as much house below ground as above, plus 3 huge wind turbines, and over an acre of solar panels...and it's own sea plane base. 

The House

da Plane

Fisherwoman

About 2 days after entering the creek (not really a creek, by the way, but I'll get to that in a minute) Gigi and I were out fishing up near the cut between Thomas and Over Yonder Cays when we noticed the big yellow float plane that belongs to “The House” circling. We gave it an fleeting glance and went back to fishing as it appeared to head out over the Exuma Sound. The next thing we heard was the roar of it's engine as it split two rocks and passed over our head close enough to feel the prop wash from his propellers. Shit! ….would have if I had time.

The next day we watched this same plane land next to a sailboat at anchor below the level of his mast. Take a trip over to the photo page and look at that series of photos. I'm glad I was not on that boat.

Pipe Creek is not really a “creek” at all it is a channel that winds it's way thru the Cays and rocks from Compass Cay on the North and Over Yonder Cay to the South and is the “pipe” thru which the tide waters flow. For Gigi and I this is heaven. There are flats to explore, great reefs to snorkel, beaches to walk and friends to enjoy. Pipe is about a 10 minute dingy ride in all weather to Tucker Rolle's Compass Cay Marina and home of one of the best burgers (and most expensive in the islands) and, of course, Tucker's pet sharks. Compass is a beautiful Island with arguably one of the most picturesque beaches in the Exumas. Sampson Cay is about 3 miles South and Staniel about 5.5 miles and on a good day not a bad trip by dingy. The best thing about Pipe Creek is it is not full of boats like Big Major's Spot, home of the famous swimming pigs, not-to-mention it's water are the clearest I've ever experienced...and that's saying something. Salty Turtle has found its Bahamian Home.

Just before the storm hit (remember we came in Pipe to get out of a Westerly blow) I took this photo of “No Regrets” and “Pretty Penny.” I had just enough time to get the camera below before the front came thru with a vengeance. We had driving rain and a quick swing to the NW. It blew 20 to 30 most of the night. Gigi stayed up on watch. I went to sleep..wasn't any need in the two of us not getting any sleep. I believe a fresh crew is better than a worn out one...and I'm stickin' to that story. 

 

Stingray As My Guide:

Gigi had been about to die for some “Chicken Souse” so after the blow we headed for Little Farmer's Cay and “Ocean Cabin” run by Terry Bain and his wife Ernestine. Earnestine makes the best chicken souse in the Bahamas and you could fill a book with Terry Bain stories. He is infamous. There was a second purpose for going to Little Farmers. We needed to deliver this years school books to the all age school and to take the 2013 photos of the school kids. We delivered the books but it was a “holiday” for the kids so the photos would have to wait.

What is “Chicken Souse” you might ask? Well it is not what you are thinking. It is sort of like Southern “Chicken Pastry” - a stew of sorts. You cut up chicken parts (usually wings but could be any piece of chicken chopped up with a machete to un-recognizable bits – why they do this I don't have a clue) and marinated with lime juice. Then the Bahamians cook the chicken in chicken broth with carrots, onion, celery, and potatoes, add whole allspice and serve with “Johnny Cake” or “Turnover.” Johnny Cake is sort of cornbread with a high mix of wheat flour with just a hint of sweet. The difference between Johnny Cake and Turnover is Johnny Cake is baked and Turnover is cooked on top of the stove with a cast-iron skillet. Chicken Souse is served with slices of lime and bird pepper to kick it up a bit. Ernestine's “souse” is the best and we have done our research. 

A little after noon Terry came back to Ocean Cabin. He and a friend had been over to Big Farmer's Cay trying to catch a goat. A few years back Terry released a few goats on the island as a source of “just in case” mutton. Mutton? Thought you said it was goat he was trying to catch? In the Bahamas “mutton” is goat so if you see “mutton curry” on the menu it is goat you will be eating. Da goat was too far back in the bush for them to catch so there was no “mutton” on Earnestine's menu that day- shame too I wanted to try her mutton curry. Terry and his bud didn't catch a goat but from the look of the empty rum bottle they sure had a good time not catchin' one.

While anchored off Western Bay at Little Farmers before heading into “Ty's Sunset Bar” for sundowners and ribs Gigi and I jumped in for a swim and snorkel. Ty claimed to make the best ribs in the Bahamas...which he doesn't but he does make a damn good rum punch and the view is wonderful.

View from Ty's Sunset Bar

One of the great things about snorkeling is the wonders (or mysteries) of nature continue to surprise even seasons “waterholics” like us. Off the end of “Salty Turtle” a small stingray was swimming and he had a “friend,” a “Blue Runner” - really a “Bar Jack” in the snapper family but most Bahamians call them “Blue Runners.” I watched this pair for 20 minutes. If the Blue Runner went forward the Stingray went forward, if he backed up the Ray gave a couple of flips in reverse. Wherever the Blue Runner went the Ray went. They never touched each other so it was not some sort of “cleaning station.” I don't know why or what dove the odd behavior. When I left the water they were still buddy swimming. I've never seen that type of behavior before. Maybe it was a “fishy” version of a gay marriage? Any body reading this have an answer for this strange behavior inquiring minds want to know? Please drop us a note if you have an explanation. This one has us stumped. 

Ray and Friend

The winds went South and Little Farmers, Blackpoint and Big Majors become a bit “rolly” with Southerly winds so it was back to Pipe Creek for us and our friend Jim on No Regrets. In our absence Jim's wife had flown out for a few weeks back in the US and his brother Doug had flown in to join Jim for a few days of R&R and “brother” time. The two of them are the salt of the earth and generous to a fault graciously sharing their larger more comfortable boat tender, stories, and most importantly – their friendship. Over the last couple of weeks Jim and Doug have shown us more great snorkeling spots than we ever thought existed and extended our knowledge of this area quite a bit. We owe Jim big time and really enjoyed meeting his brother Doug. 

Light house marking Cut between Pipe and Little Pipe Cay

 

Mike and Maril Doster will be in Sunday for a visit and they don't know it yet but they owe Jim already. He volunteered to pick up Mike and Maril in Staniel Cay and it is supposed to be blowing 20 – 25 out the West and my little dingy would beat them to pieces and soak them to the skin. Even in Jim's tender it will be a bit of a wet ride but nothing like “the experience” would be in our dink.

After Mike and Maril's visit we plan on taking the school photos at Blackpoint and Little Farmer's and then heading for Long Island for a few days and a reunion with “Pretty Penny” and “Barefootin”

Staniel Cay All Grade School 2013

Fairwinds and Rum Drinks,

Vic & Gigi

Clear Water Pipe Ck.

PS – Ply me with enough rum and I might show you how to get into Pipe Creek...might I said. You'll just have to take the chance if ya want da local knowledge.

**Note to Sailors: Using the Explorer Charts if you cross the Yellow Banks using the line from Porgee Rock to Allen's Cays you will experience the fewest coral heads to watch out for. We use this line until we reach Longitude 77⁰ 0.0' by then you are out of the coral and can head south to any destination you chose with no worries mate.

2013/01/30 Crossing / Nassau

Log of the Salty Turtle: Lake Maul to Nassau January 14 – January 29, 2013

1/14/2013 Maul Lake to Key Biscayne, FL 17nm

1/16/2013 Key Biscayne to Between Palm and Hibiscus Island, Miami 14nm

1/20/2013 Hibiscus Island (Miami) to Nassau, Bahamas 166nm

1/26/2013 Nassau Harbor Club to Nassau Harbor Club (aborted crossing) 7nm

Miami by Night

“I no longer had the sensation of traveling but a feeling of living an isolated life on an island 44 feet long.”

Ray Kauffman

Miami Beach Sunrise

Maul Lake to Miami Beach (Between Palm and Hibiscus Islands):

The ICW between Ft. Lauderdale and Biscayne Bay is not my favorite but it is better than the stretch between Lake Worth an Lauderdale (thank god) – less bridges, more open water, and fewer assholes. We worked our way across the busy Port of Miami and under the Rickenbacker Causeway Bridge into Biscayne Bay.

When you pass under Rickenbacker you enter a different world – the world of Biscayne Bay and the Florida Keys. To me, Biscayne Bay is meant for sailing small boats. The Bay is open, shallow, and protected. As we passed under the bridge the Turtle was greeted by a fleet of 49ers (18' boats with winged trampolines for hiking and long bowsprit for flying asymmetrical spinnakers). They barely seemed to touch the water, man they smoke or at least we thought they did until two days later when we found out what “fast” really was.

Moths

We were sitting on the stern of Salty Turtle enjoying our afternoon sundowners when out on the horizon an appropriation appeared – two specks moving at the speed of light. They were “Moth” class sailboats. These boats are about 16' in length, with a deck of only about 2' in beam and trampolines for hiking out, but what makes these boat unique is they are hydrofoils with foils on keel and rudder. The whole boat weighs in at around 80 pounds including sails. In 10 knots of wind the skipper will ride about 2' above the water and reach speeds approaching 18 knots. Moths are real cruiser entertainment.

Our window to cross evaporated and we decided to move over to Miami Beach between Palm and Hibiscus Islands to hide from a blow and wait for the next window.

Hibiscus and Palm Islands:

Hibiscus and Palm islands are two of many spoil island situated between Miami and Miami Beach. Anchoring between them gave great protection from all directions but did have one, small disadvantage. We were now the turning mark for the tourist boats out of Miami. On the other hand, we learned a lot about the homes on the islands free of charge.

Bacardi Home

The homes on the Palm and Hibiscus are not your normal gaudy, 20,000 square feet, expensive, boorish, houses one comes to expect in South Florida. Each home is an architectural masterpiece. Each as different from the other as the taste of the individuals that built them. They are not huge monuments to money (but obviously are about money, individuality, and taste). Take a look at the photo of the one of the homes we were anchored near. We didn't know it until the tourist boats started circling us but it is one of many that belongs to the Bacardi family (we had anchored off a rum “Meca” and didn't even know it) – it is for rent, by-the-way, for a mere $30,000 a day.

Observation: A smile or salute of simple recognition gives pleasure to both the giver and receiver.

In the tradition of sailors, every afternoon Gigi and I would adjourn to the stern of the Turtle, enjoy sundowners, and await the close of the day and the sparkle of lights as they twinkled on around us – quite a pleasant tradition I might add. It became a habit to salute the tourist boats as they passed with raised glass and a smile. We noticed on every boat people would return our gesture of friendship with a smile of their own. The simple acknowledgement of a fellow human being can give great joy and it cost nothing.

The Crossing:

On the morning of the 20^th we got our chance – a mild 2 day weather window to cross to Nassau. By 9:00 AM we had dodged a couple of ships (Gigi don't like big ships) and cleared the inlet. We were at sea and on our way. The Gulf Stream greeted us with 4 to 6' swells spaced about 10 seconds apart (like riding an elevator with its gentle rise and fall). I don't really understand why but the Gulf Stream gave us a little push all day and we were on the Bahama Banks near North Rock, just N. of Bimini, by 3:00 PM. We crossed the banks under a crystal clear sky filled with stars counting red starfish in 20' of water. By 8:30 the next day were tied up at Nassau Harbor Club and greeted with big Bahamian hugs from our friends Peter, Dudley and Clark. We were back in our Bahamas and home.

Customs and Immigration, as usual, threw us a curve. Customs gave us a years cruising permit. Immigration gave us just what we wanted for a change, 180 days before we have to search for somewhere to renew, but... only gave us 60 days on our fishing permit so we will still have to be in Nassau or Georgetown in 60 days to get a renewal – the Bahamian government “givith and takith” away. 'Dis da Bahamas Mon. What you get is what they give.

BTCO:

Gigi and I decided since the Bahamian Telephone Company (BTCO for short) had gone “4G” we would get a broadband card and a data plan ($30/month unlimited data). Sounds simple doesn't it. Nothing but nothing that has anything to do with BTCO is ever simple.

Tues: We met Clay, an almost Bahamian Texas friend that was to be our guide, at TPA(his marina) and walked the 5 blocks to the BTCO office on Shirley St. There we got a sims card for Gigi's old Bahamian phone and asked if they had any broadband cards. “No mon”, was the answer (technically they were right, the importance of this will come later). But we had an “ace” we had Clay and he had heard that a computer store at the corner of Meridian and Royal Streets had a “Zoom” broadband card. Simple we catch the No.1 bus to Royal and see if we get lucky.

It was the consensus of the group that we grab a good breakfast at the little place around the corner from BTCO before we make the trek. While at breakfast we remembered that we needed “minutes” for the phone or it would not work. Back to BTCO. They sold us “minutes.” Why they didn't ask us while we were there the first time if we needed “minutes” (it was obvious we did). The “why” will remain a Bahamian mystery in marketing.

We took the No. 1 bus to Meridian and Royal, but... for some unknown reason the bus driver decides to take a short cut and by pass Meridian and Royal. Luckily Clay caught it and got the driver to put us out only a short block or 2 from the computer store – in the Bahamas all things seem to be the same but never quite are. We were in luck, the computer store had a Zoom and sold us one, but they do not sell sims cards or data plans. Back to BTCO. This time the down town store since all buses go down town.

We caught the No. 19 bus. Then walked the 6 blocks to the BTCO office where we bought a sims card and data plan (we are getting smarter we bought both this time) and thanks to Clay got them to activate the sims card by putting it in our phone and doing some magic. We walked the 8 blocks to catch the No. 19 bus back to Clay's Marina and Harbor Club. Clay asked if I needed help installing the Zoom. “Na” I said confidently. I didn't think I did since the nice lady at BTCO had given me explicit instructions and I had written them down. It seemed pretty straight forward. Two hours later I was back at Clays boat begging help. Two hours later we were both throughly beaten. I was beginning to believe it was a sims card or a BTCO issue.

Wed: Next day I took the No.19 bus to BTCO and found the nice lady that had helped us the day before. She took the sims card out of the Zoom and tested it in a phone. It worked. She tried to install the Zoom on a PC she had in house and it would not work. Finally, she said I needed to take it back to the computer store she thought it was bad or we were missing something. As a parting shot she said, “If they will take it back I have an Android phone for $100 that will act as a G3 hotspot and you would have your broadband and phone in one.” Why the folk at the Shirley St. BTCO didn't tell us this I'll never know – again Bahamian marketing at it's best.

Grabbed the No.1 Bus to the Computer Store but this time it does not take a short cut and lets us off at the store (our luck is changing). I explain the problem to clerk. She looked at my install information on my computer and she said, “Why you put the phone number there?” I said, “Well, it ask for the phone number.” “No mon, you put *9***99*#. You not follow the instruction?” I said, “What instructions other than the ones in the package with the Zoom?” Too which she produced a sheet of typed paper from behind the counter with instructions and said, “Dis instructions.” “Sorry Mon,” she say as she hand me da sheet. They wouldn't take the Zoom back...of course.

We took the No.19 bus back to Harbor Club. It took 2 minutes to install the Zoom and have it up and running on both Gigi's and my computers. The moral to the story: “Tings' usually work in the Bahamas but ya gotta' pay your dues first.”

Short BTCO Story: This one Clay shared with me and it was too good not to share with you. A miserly friend of his needed to make a short call to the States. He checked his minutes as he always did before the call, made his less than 1 minute call, and again checked his minutes. The phone said he had used 5 minutes when the call had been less than 1. He was pissed and immediately called BTCO and as calmly as a pissed off man can explained that the phone had ate 5 of his minutes on a less than 1 minute call. The operator with out a blink indignantly explained, “Our minutes different dan your minutes,” and hung up. Score one for BTC. If you lose your sense of humor here you will be one frustrated cruiser.

To end my BTCO rant on an “political” note... Two year ago British Wireless bought 51% of BTCO and started to make positive changes in the system. This year a different political party took over control of the Government and are trying to take back control and put BTCO back in Bahamian hands. The international banking community has warned them that if they break their contract with British Wireless their lending status will go down the toilet. No one know what the out come will be, but...the Bahamians do have a habit of blowing large holes in their feet.

All For One Regatta:

Chris Parker, the weather guru, said the winds were supposed to go 5 – 10 NE with 1 to 2 foot seas on Saturday but pump back up on Sunday. We had our window to cross the Yellow Banks – narrow, but a window. Saturday at 9:00 we left Harbor Club and headed out. It was anything but light. We had 15 to 20 on the nose with 2 to 4' seas. It was an abort and by 10:30 were back tied up at Harbor Club with no window in site.

The window was closed but the first ever “All For One Regatta” was being held off Montague Park complete with A, B and C Class Sloop racing and, again, first ever E Class sculling races. It turned out to be 2 days of some of the best racing I've seen in the Bahamas, great Jerk BBQ, and more beer and booze than even I can drink. We sat with fellow cruisers, made new Bahamian friends, and had a ball. There is nothing like Bahamian Sloop racing any where – good food, ladies dressed to the 9s, Bahamians explaining the finer points to their children (and anyone who will listen), and line a up of line “Sunday Morning Skippers” critiquing the tactics at the top of their lungs. It is a true Bahamian experience and both G and I love their regattas and their people. 

It looks like we will finally get out of here on Thursday. Our plan (written in Jello) is to cross the Yellow Banks on Thursday and go all the way to Big Major Spot near Staniel Cay. Our window slams shut early Friday and we need to be hold up somewhere by then and Big Majors is a good spot.

Fairwinds and Rum Drinks,

Vic